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Letters from the road
Sunday, 24 November 2013
Cruising the greek Islands
Topic: Europe

I had a hard choice to make. Mick was headed towards England, Ireland, cold pubs and warm beer. Spring is my favourite time of the year in England, the tourists have gone, and the weather is the same as the rest of the year. Crap. I really want to go with him but my hearts just not in it. Sorry Mick. Cry

                Who am I trying to kid. You couldn’t get me out of northern Europe fast enough.  Sailing around the Greek Islands is one of those fantasies that I think everybody dreams about.  Fitzy and Kate had sent their boat over on a big Freighter, and had spent the last couple of months exploring the French Riviera, Monaco, and the Italian coast line. Greece was next,  “Pick Me”.

                This is how I found myself on a windy afternoon in Corinth Harbour, talking to the customs bloke and looking for a dot on the Horizon. Eventually the dot turned up and that’s where I joined the Yacht "Loki" and my crew for our jaunt around the Aegean. After convincing customs that I really didn’t want to escape the country yet, we headed off through the Corinth canal, and into the sea of Islands. We spent a couple of days cruising down the coast stopping at the little towns at night for dinner, breakfast and a bit of sightseeing on the way.  Then we turned east and out into the Aegean proper. Our first stop was Kythnos, and the little fishing town of Loutra.  The crew did an excellent job of birthing us at the wharf while I supervised, then we headed the 20 meters into town for a coldie and a bite to eat. The next morning we caught a taxi up into the hills to check out the main town. They built them up here in the first century to deter the pirates, they where lazy bastards who couldn’t be bothered walking up the hills. There is no shortage of hills here. It’s hot, but the town’s all have a cool square with vine covered walkways and little cafes off them.  After lunch, it’s a bit more sightseeing round the island with a local history lesson from the taxi driver. Back to the boat for dinner, and then off to the next island in the morning.

The Aegean can be very windy. The local breeze is called the Meltemi which sort of sounds like bad wind in Spanish but god knows what it means in Greek. It blows from May to September then vanishes. We missed it by a week, consequently  we do a lot of motoring, sticking the sail up when the is the odd hint of breeze. The islands make the winds blow from all directions, and very inconstant, so by the time we get the sail up the wind is generally gone. Our taxi driver tells us this is the best time of the year, the tourists have gone, the Meltemi has gone, the weather is good, and the locals are cruising to the end of the season before packing up and heading back to Athens. 

We follow the same pattern for a week, then I’ve got a plane to catch. I leave the crew to find a berth for the boat in Turkey, while I fly 2000 KM in the wrong direction to catch a plane which flies back over where I’ve just left. I tell the guys to notify me immediately if they find a Greek Island which is not, hilly, covered in houses with white walls and blue windows, has trees, or doesn’t have perfect weather.  I’m still waiting for the call. Click the Pic

 


Posted by bondrj at 2:24 PM EADT
Updated: Wednesday, 16 February 2022 9:07 PM EADT
Tuesday, 17 September 2013
Corinth Canal
Topic: Europe
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The Corinth Canal
It cuts through the narrow Isthmus of Corinth and separates the Peloponnesian peninsula from the Greek mainland thus forming another an island because the Greeks need another island. You can also get small ships through it cutting of a couple of hundred klicks on the trip to Athens . It is known for it's steep sides, narrow width and shallow draft. This means mainly pleasure craft use it. It is also the most expensive canal to use in the world per meter. In fine Greek tradition the Emperor Nero started digging it in the first century, and it was completed relatively quickly for a Greek construction job in 1893. After a short defect rectification period it got into it's full swing in 1940 just in time for the Germans to blow it up in late 44, dumping a couple of spare locomotive in it just for good measure. The Yanks finally got it open properly in 1948. Fitzy and Kate picked me up at Corinth Town in their yacht Loki and we sailed through the canal on our way to the Greek islands.  You can see some of Kate's fine photographic work here     Click the pic for more

 

Posted by bondrj at 2:15 AM NZT
Updated: Wednesday, 16 February 2022 9:09 PM EADT
Tuesday, 20 August 2013
Athens Days
Topic: Europe
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       I was last in Athens 26 years ago. Susie had the runs and we had to spend a week here getting her stopped up with anti poo meds so we could head for the Islands. I spent a lot of time walking around town, she didn't, but I digress.  I've booked a hotel next to the metro downtown some where. Criteria, Breakfast and a pool. The Stanley fitted these, and also has a very nice bar with a view over town. A 5 am Paris start, a stop at Zurich, Athens Metro, Find the hotel, a bit of pool therapy, and its time for lunch. My memories of Athens food are oily salads and souvlakies with not much else. Sue couldn't eat these due to her dogy tummy so I remember finding the one Chinese in town on one of my walks. Fortunately I feel like salad and souva so I head out. I came here via the subway so I haven't really had much of a look at town from under 5000 feet. First impression Zombie town. Most buildings are either half built, half pulled down, or covered with shutters and graffiti. Rubbish is blowing down the street. The people that aren't begging are sleeping something off.  Twenty six years, nothing seems to have changed.

        I'm about a mile from the main square so I head towards it. It's hot here, damm hot. I pass ice cream parlours, baguette shops, a tea house, and the obligatory golden arches but not one souva shop. Most places are shut, I know it's Sunday but there are a few people in town, and damn it, I'm hungry and I know what I want. Half an hour later I'm at Sygmarta Square, Greeks protesting about something outside parliament. Maybe it's the lack of Souvlakie in town. I could get a decent souva quicker in Woomera. I turn west and finally find some life with lots of nice cafes and shopping, I'm just about to give up. I've only eaten plastic aircraft food and it's getting to late in the afternoon. Then I look down a lane, there are people eating down there. My eyesight is starting to fade from the lack of food, I stagger towards the light as it fades to a point, then darkness. When I come to I'm in Heaven . Souvlakie Heaven. Tables with plastic cloths, towers of pita bread, people yabbering in Greek, things rotating on spits as far as the eye can see. I lunge towards the nearest tower of rotating mammal flesh, and for 2 euro I have my prize. Some times the best things in life take a bit of work. Click the pic for more. 

Posted by bondrj at 9:02 AM NZT
Updated: Saturday, 19 August 2023 2:50 AM NZT
Wednesday, 14 August 2013
The Bunker
Topic: Europe

I was feeling bored with swimming and eating one day so I decided to go for a walk and check out the view from one of the local hill tops. It took about half an hour of brisk walking to get up to the top and as I was catching my breath and enjoying the great view I noticed the patch of concrete I was standing on. I wondered who would be crazy enough to cart concrete up such a steep hill and got on with admiring the view. Eventually I looked turned towards the mountains and saw a ruined house hidden on the rear of the hill so I went to investigate. What did I find when I got there. Well you'll have to click the pic to find out. By the way the place is called Puig de la Morisca at Cala Montjoi


Posted by bondrj at 5:50 AM NZT
Updated: Friday, 14 January 2022 7:26 PM EADT
Saturday, 27 July 2013
Eygalieres Days
Topic: Europe
Mick at Work photo DSC02055.jpg My cousin has a shack at Eygaliers in Provence.  After riding Alpe d Huez we need a little R n R so along with a couple more people we headed down there for a week. Steven, Andrew, Bev, Doff and Victoria would head off to see the sights at the crack of ten, leaving Mick and I free to get up and start our busy schedule.  Bev being an early riser would have walked to the bakery  and acquired croissants which Mick and I would then consume for breakfast. A bit of procrastinating followed by a quick dip in the pool, and then the major decision of the day, Which restaurant should we consume " Le Menu" the all in set price French lunch. A bit of Bike riding, lunch and then back to the pool for another quick dip and a spot of Stig Larrson or John Krakauer depending on the mood. Late in the day the others would return from a hard day of Museum, Market, Sightseeing, whatever with food and wine for dinner . Ive just about recovered from the arduous days on the mountain but I have to go now and slip a bit more pool and book in just to make sure.

 

Provence Forecast

Pool temp 30 Deg

Weather Hot

Sky Sunny

Every Day

Click the pic for more


Posted by bondrj at 2:43 AM NZT
Updated: Wednesday, 16 February 2022 9:13 PM EADT
Tuesday, 23 July 2013
From lile-de-France to Little Somalia.
Topic: Europe
Paris photo paris.jpg

 

My mate has hired a place in l'île de la Cité for a week. Its the  kind of place that you would to imagine all Paris is like. Its in on an island in the trendiest part of town, looks out over the Seine on one side and over a Cafe, Boulangerie and a Tebac on the other side. There are 20 cheese shops with in 200 meters. The cafe down the road does an excellent petite dejunier  with waiters who just have the correct amount of French arrogance. His place is on the first floor so you can hear the street life below, the Emir of Qatar owns a palace,  just down the road, and you expect to see some one making one of those eat pray whatever  flicks when you walk out the door.           

Meanwhile Shane and I are holed up in Little Somalia just down the road physically, but another world away in reality. Our twin room in the Best Western has a whole 13 square meters of space. Pace it out sometime, its almost big enough to get two single beds in if you stack all the furniture in one corner. Its on the first floor and comes with a great street view, off a wall.

Little Somalia has 10,000 hair beading shops on one street. The streach from Gare d Ost three blocks to our hotel.Apart from Kebab shops they seem to be the only industry apart from the worlds oldest profession along with the worlds oldest practitioners. Forty euros buys you a lot of experience around here.  Its not all bad though, When every thing is shut in real Paris you can still get a Kebab and chilli sauce with the crazy people wandering the streets down here. They have real shops selling stuff people can afford and you don't feel threatened even late at night. Go to the Kebab shop twice, pay, and don't talk to your imaginary friend, your a valued customer.
    In between the two worlds around the Pompidou centre there are some great bars, full of life late into the night. We propped here a couple of times after a hard day of site seeing for a couple of draughts and the odd Calvados. The best part is no matter how late it is you can always grab one  of the free Velieb bikes spread around town to get yourself home

Just remember they drive on the wrong side of the road, even at night and you'll be fine.

Thanks to Mick for the photo

 


Posted by bondrj at 11:13 AM NZT
Updated: Wednesday, 30 August 2017 9:06 AM NZT
Sunday, 24 February 2013
I've been to Bali too
Topic: Asia
<span>                </span><span> </span>Muslims’ to Mecca, Aussie’s go to Bali. Young blokes get on the end of year footy trip. Girls go for the shopping. <span> </span>Then OS to the Oktoberfest. <span> </span>When I first started travelling, planes used to refuel in Bali so I always thought I would go there on a stop over, then planes got better, no more stopovers. Cancun, Goa, and Thailand got ticked. <span>  </span>Never played footy so I missed out on the first bit. </p>  <p class=                Cue Linda, she lives in a tropical resort and runs a hotel complex already so if she wants to relax the last thing she needs to do is invite a bunch of free loaders to Noosa.  I’m checking my email one day and here’s a invite to a birthday in Bali. They thought they would maybe get 15 people. The word goes out, there is a bit of networking on the airfares, and for $500 I’m in. So are 60 others, and the quite birthday party goes out the door.

 

                In my head I know it’s not true but in the back of my mind I’m still thinking of Bali as that mystical island in South Pacific the musical. Waves break on golden beaches while grass huts house the locals under coconut trees. I pick up Mandy on the way to the airport, we Qantas club it appropriating some coke for the 200ml scotch bottle I’ve bought in the duty free. Bloody budget airlines, once upon a time the free booze was the only upside of flying.  I’m a Bali virgin, Mandy on the other hand is a seasoned professional, Twenty Five trips plus some. We ignore the final call have another scotch then wander up to our gate. They start loading and when the queue thins out, we join the end only to hear our names called out. What’s the problem, we are in the line two hardened travellers with a thousand flights between us, and where getting on a flight to, Auckland. Opps. We rush off to our now empty correct gate. The Lady who checked us in looks at Mandy with a smile and says “I knew you were a trouble maker”.

                Six hours later we are there. The rest of the crew have been at Club Med for the day. Sixty bucks for all the parasailing, diving, surfing, swimming, waterskiing, booze, bikeri____________ Did someone say “Booze”.  The bloke handing out the towels will recover after being crushed in the stampede to the bar. The staff where heard to mutter later on in the day “There worse than the Russians”  No one is up to meet us when we rock up at 10pm except Dicko who joins us but has a coffee.

                Where in Seminyak, which I was told was a bit out of town. The hotel is modern, lovely and everything works. It could have been dropped from space to anywhere in the world and you would have no idea where you were. It has two pools and some grand villas which the birthday girl is ensconced in. My dreams of beaches and palm trees have evaporated to be replaced with memories of suburban Mumbai, traffic included. Taxi’s are cheap which is good as most of your time in them is spent standing still. Just outside the door is a great little strip of cafe’s, tee shirt shops , Bars, and Viagra sellers. In my youth I was offered Tiger Balm, now I get hit with “Viagra, Cialis, Cheeeep” every ten feet.  One pleasant surprise is the food. It was all great. I ate everything including the salads and fresh fruit which is generally a no no in these sort of places. You could get whatever you want. Fresh Sushi, Greek food, Mee Goring, Satays, Cesar Salads, Steaks. There were even a large selection of KFC’s, Macca’s, and Burger Kings for the blokes on footy trips.  That night we have the big birthday in the villa. The Couple renew their wedding Vows, and Cheese presents his wife with a My husband is awesome tee shirt. The sixty of us are treated to sucking pig, fire dancers, cocktails and Bintang for everyone.  When I leave there is only the troublesome girl from the airport and the birthday girl drinking cocktails left. The next day is vague.  Linda is a event planner in her spare moments, so those interested head off to Golf, Mountain biking, Rafting, Potato Head, and the Rock Bar. With sixty of us here there is always someone to do Lunch, Shopping, Beach , Drinks or all of the above with.

                After five days Dicko and I head off to Legian. Its only a couple of Km’s away but the Hotel Jayakarta is on a different planet, old style Bali, on the beach. The rooms are crappy but the grounds are full of carved sandstone and shingled buildings. Breakfast  is hit and miss, with staff passing empty food containers in the buffet until prompted by the guests to refill them, but the staff are nice. The pool has a bar in it. Out the front the beach  is full of little bars and sun lounges with one or two people in each. We invade one of these with the rest of the crew one day and Bintang ourselves. We go swimming and watch the local surfers cut the waves to bits.  The little bar doesn’t open for the rest of our stay there. The rumour is the owner has retired on the profits.

                I brave the constant traffic jam and head to Kuta to go shopping but my heart is not in it. Knockoff NBA/AFL shirts, watches, and DVD’s. Hundreds of shops selling all the same crap. Business is not good. Everywhere new hotels are being built. I buy a MP3 player disguised as a bintang can, and an Uncle Norms tee shirt. I head up to Ubud a town made famous in Eat,Pray,Shop to go mountain biking. After a couple of hours driving we get great views of the volcano and a nice 40km downhill cruise with the odd stop for a  bit  of local culture. Nice to be out of the traffic with the local kids chasing you down the hills through the rice paddies. I drink weasel poo coffee and have a pleasant local lunch. Its monsoon but the weather has been good, but it can’t last. It starts to rain. Most of us are heading back to our day jobs so the crowed of friends are slowly thinning out. I spend the last couple of days reading and dodging the rain. Dicko and I leave straight from Uncle Norms to the airport, through the traffic and the building sites. Bali tick.

                Thanks to Linda and Tony for putting on a great time for all of us, and giving me an excuse to finally go to Bali. I’m sure they needed a rest when they got home. Thanks to the rest of my guides for just showing me the good stuff. Now I’ve been to Bali too.

 

Posted by bondrj at 3:56 PM EADT
Updated: Wednesday, 16 February 2022 9:16 PM EADT
Friday, 18 January 2013
City Views
Topic: Undefined
Melbourne 1976, Seems I,ve been takingpictures of the city for a long time. This one from my Mums work in 1976. Thanks to Mick and Bev for reminding me

 

A bit of a local trip today, I spend a lot of time standing on roofs, sometimes with my camera which gives me some great (and not so great ) views of the city. The picture above was taken 1976 and recently resurrected by Mick and Bev. I'd forgotten all about it. Click the pic for more.

 


Posted by bondrj at 12:25 AM EADT
Updated: Wednesday, 16 February 2022 9:18 PM EADT
Wednesday, 28 November 2012
The High Country Rail trail.
Topic: Australia

Not far till lunch

 

After a bit of effort I finally managed to ride along the old Tallarook to Alexander Rail Trail. Mick and I headded off at 7.12am to Southern Cross station and after about an hour we where having Ham and cheese toasties with coffee at the Tullarook general store. The trail itself is about 85kms which is a bit of a stretch even for some one in peak fitness like myself. Mick had bought the touring bike with tools, while I had the light weight racer. Both where suitable for the trail but I did try to move Micks bike at one stage and did my back in with the weight of it.  I had sorted the accommodation (Thanks Des), Meals (Thanks Des), Bike support (Thanks Des and Mick),Transport (Thanks Des, Mick, and Happy), and the evening entertainment (Thanks Des, Mick,Josh and Happy). The rest I left to my helpers.The day was quite hot and we where lucky we got going early. A few coffee stops and we made half way at Yea for lunch about 12. Happy was meeting us here with Josh, unfortunately he was still stuck in the traffic in Melbourne at the time. Mick and I settled down in the Bakery watching the cricket while we waited.

         The Hapster eventually rocked up with Josh,  and we set off in the hottest part of the day to ride to the Cheviot tunnel. Most people think you go down to a tunnel but on railway lines they tend to be at the top of the hill. By this time it was getting quite warm, and the 9km climb took it's toll on us. Once you got into the tunnel it was beautiful and cool, a bit like a huge swampy air conditioner with a nice breeze blowing through it. Even better still the next section was 8 KM of down hill to the Molesworth pub. We sat out the heat and watched the Cricket for another hour. Only another 20 km to go.

          Five KM to the turn off to Alex then 12 KM up the hill, Im running out of energy but pushing it, Josh is cruzing right on my tail, with the others in the dust somewhere behind. A 10 minute coast into town then where here. Surprise 4.30PM and everything in town is closed, we are in the country after all. After a few enquirers we find the fish and chip shop hidden in the side street. Des is on the river catching dinner, and it's still 6 km to go to the trailer park. Happy's toasted, I'm not much better, Josh is rearing to go. I leave Hap bolted to the chair with a cool drink and a dimmy, and head up the last hill.  The clock ticks over 87 km and I'm there.

        Des rocks up with the goods, he's got a couple of one and a half kilo trout and a roast for dinner. Des heads off to town to pick up the wounded, and Hap's car. I have a power nap and put the roast on.  They return with beer, we eat fish, roast lamb, and discuss the benifits of the motor car. The five of us pass out in the van, Hap and Josh sharing the double. Next morning we head into town for a good breaky. More Fuel.

         Happy drives the car back to Yea and heads up the hill to meet us at the tunnel. We meet and ride back into Yea. I try to loose Josh again, but after 10 min of pushing it he's still right on my tail. Mick and I think about riding back to Tullarook for about a nano second, then take up Hap's offer of a ride back to Melbourne after another bakery fix. These cars are bloody good things bloke. The next day I drink about 10 liters of water. Click the pic for more photos.

            


Posted by bondrj at 10:15 PM EADT
Updated: Wednesday, 16 February 2022 9:24 PM EADT
Monday, 19 November 2012
SLC
Topic: North America
The aproach      The only state in the contental U.S I was yet to set foot in. Unfortunatly I only got to the airport but it looked good , even if it was a little cold. Click the pic for more.

Posted by bondrj at 12:03 AM EADT
Updated: Friday, 14 January 2022 8:51 PM EADT

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