When I think of Berlin I get John Le Čarre novels, and the Cold War. As a child of the 60’s the threat of nuclear annihilation, and Berlin surrounded by the communist state, is burnt into my head. The Berliners sensibly have gotten way past this. The wall has all but been erased, to be replaced by shiny new apartment blocks, and chiq cafes. The only vestige of Stalinist  architecture is the American embassy. The only sign of fascism  the toilet ladies who no matter how desperate you are won’t let you have a pee for less than a euro at every train station. Instead you get a modern city, a bit like a huge Canberra. It’s even got a big stick thingy sticking out of the center of it you can use to get your bearing’s.