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Letters from the road
Tuesday, 9 August 2022
The Spanish House
Topic: Europe


               It’s not one house, it’s really three. A beach, and a beach bar. What more could you want. Click the 
pic for more.

Posted by bondrj at 12:01 AM NZT
Updated: Tuesday, 4 October 2022 4:20 PM NZT
Sunday, 10 July 2022
The French House
Topic: Europe

 

    Get a bunch of friends together, rent a big house with a pool, go do lunch, hang out, drink some wine. You would think most people would jump at it.

    Unfourtunatly life gets in the way. Love to come but I have to take my bins out on Tuesday night sort of stuff. Mick spreadsheeted it, but the numbers didn't look good. Build it and they will come I replied. So we took the leep into the unknowen. Eventually a brave quorom appeared.

   Heres to you hose mates, I think we made the right choice.

As usual Click the pic for the action.

A big thanks to all the people who took the photos, you know who you are.

 007


Posted by bondrj at 12:01 AM NZT
Updated: Thursday, 6 October 2022 4:30 PM NZT
Sunday, 26 June 2022
France a Velo
Topic: Europe

 


Click the pic for more photos

   Riding a bike may not be the fastest way to get there, but on holiday speed isn’t that important. The pluses are at a slow speed you don’t miss much, apart from the odd lookout five hundred meters plus up a hill. “C'est la vie”, we are already here, why would we need to look down on it.
     Day one. I rock into Paris after an overnight train from Berlin. For a bike ride, you need a bike. Fortunately I have the best spreadsheet man in France on the job. “Mick”. In the box it says buy bikes. We drop off our gear at our hotel, and head off looking for bikes at a couple of local bike shops. The first one is just down the road, and it has a fine spread of bikes that sort of look suitable just outside the shop. The guy in the shop is busy so we head over the road to a local brassiere. Le menu is the staple of the French working man. For 17 euros we get a three course lunch. Terrine, Roast  chook, and crème brûlée, washed down with Evian, and whatever else looks suitable. A couple of hours later we are back. After a quick inquiry, we are disappointed to find that the bikes out the front are the locals in for repair. No problems, we have a list of other targets. Three bike shops later, two actually, one had been turned into a dress shop, still no bikes. Time for plan B. Decathlon is a large category killer sports store. All you need is cash.  Four hundred euro’s later, I have a bike, pack rack, panniers, even a stack hat. It’s not even dinner time and we are ready to roll.
       The plan is head south down the Seine, along the canal to the Loire, through the hills to Lyon, then south along the Rohne to Avignon. We start by heading down to the junction of the river Marnie, and the Seine. Scenic highlights here are car wrecks, and a huge abandoned Chinese restaurant. You gotta start somewhere. Navigation isn’t all that difficult. 1. We are following a river. 2. Europe has a system of long distance bike trails called the Euro velos. Euro velo 3 starts in Norway, and finishes in Spain via Paris. At sometime we will jump to Euro velo 6 towards Lyon. They are well marked, and run along either bike trails or very quite roads. Our plan is to do 30 to 60km, a day. Stop at every patisserie. Find a “menu” for lunch, and a cheap hotel with a magnificent view, comfortable beds, and a crowed bar for dinner. Not too much to ask really.
        River’s don’t really do hills, this is a good thing when you are on a bike. We stop at Melun for lunch. This is inspired, because for the rest of the day we don’t see much other than quite canal paths, and little houses. Our 50kms for the day takes us to Champagne sus seine, not much here. We head on to the next town past closed b and b’s and not open yet hotels. It’s s early June, so the summer rush hasn’t started yet, so lots of stuff is still closed. Finally we see a sign for a campground. A cabin maybe. I guess I could stoop as low as that. Mick my French expert handles the negotiations. We have a place. That’s it “a place”. Back to reception, there are cabins here but you can’t rent them. The owner offers us an old tent for ten euros, it’s late, and we are tired. Deal. I find some cardboard boxes t stick under the tent, and pinch a blanket from the laundry.  Town is a couple of klicks away, and it is actually quite lively. Crepes  for dinner, then back to the dirt. It’s still light at ten, and our site has power, with free bugs included. Amazingly I sleep like a log, and the showers in the morning are hot. 
          That’s the routine for the next ten days. We stay in hotels, apartments, gites, b+b’s, and even a convent. One French family welcomed us into their home. We were getting kicked out of our hotel in Villemandeur because of a cat show. Françios graciously agreed to house us cat evicted orphans, and proceeded to even feed us. I am forever great full for being shown the French tradition of drinking a soup bowel full of coffee, out of a soup bowl for breakfast. Just the thing to set you up for a long days riding.
         Good things can’t last forever, and we have an appointment with our French county mansion. The last ride is thirty km from Avignon. I’ve been here before and I remember the roads being narrow and busy. Then out of the blue we stumble on an unfinished rail trail. In Victoria this would be sealed off waiting two years for the final sign off from some UN body. Here in France not finished open. It’s even heading in the right direction. Eventually I recognise the shops about 5 minutes from our new home. Baguettes, check, Milk, check, six pack of cold Heinekens for 5 euro, check. Peddle for a couple of minutes. Jump in the pool. Check. We’re here.
          Thanks to Mick for the navigation and the planning. For the local experience “Warm showers” is a bike touring website, that connects bike tourer’s with people who have spare rooms. 

 

 


Posted by bondrj at 12:01 AM NZT
Updated: Monday, 27 June 2022 4:09 AM NZT
Sunday, 29 May 2022
Berlin
Topic: Europe
 
 
 
Click the pic above for more photos

   When I think of Berlin I get John Le Čarre novels, and the Cold War. As a child of the 60’s the threat of nuclear annihilation, and Berlin surrounded by the communist state, is burnt into my head. The Berliners sensibly have gotten way past this. The wall has all but been erased, to be replaced by shiny new apartment blocks, and chiq cafes. The only vestige of Stalinist  architecture is the American embassy. The only sign of fascism  the toilet ladies who no matter how desperate you are won’t let you have a pee for less than a euro at every train station. Instead you get a modern city, a bit like a huge Canberra. It’s even got a big stick thingy sticking out of the center of it you can use to get your bearing’s. 
       I’ve got a couple of days here, day passes are cheap, so let’s jump on the bus and see what we can find. 


Posted by bondrj at 12:01 AM NZT
Updated: Tuesday, 4 October 2022 4:22 PM NZT
Friday, 11 February 2022
Nepal
Topic: East Asia

    


So I think I have just fixed all the photo links in this blog. It's only taken about two years of procrastination In celebration here is the first story i posted. It was on a web page back in the dark ages of 2002 in Nepal. From memory it took a whole afternoon in Mads flat, a slide scanner, and two different internet providers in Katmandu to load up. It's from when Mick and I walked to Everest. 

 

 

       Once upon a time there where two brothers. Who went to climb Rum Doodle the tallest mountain in the world at 40,000 � thousand feet. They took there trusty mascot and stayed in tea houses. While all the time braving the Napalie trails and checking out the scenery. . �They fought hardship, crossed wild gorges, fought their way through blizzards, all the while trying to keep the natives at bay. After 7 long days and 7 even longer nights, they reached the peak� only to find it had already been assailed by hordes of others.

They also got drunk, feed the street kids, and lost all our money at the casino but that�s another story.

 

The second part of the story is here, comes with a language warning. 


Posted by bondrj at 12:01 AM EADT
Updated: Saturday, 19 February 2022 5:58 PM EADT
Tuesday, 30 November 2021
Up in the air Junior Birdman.
Topic: Undefined

     Boats . They take forever to get there. Then there is all that bobbing around like a cork. No thanks. Choppers. Glorified Egg beaters. One hundred thousand nuts and bolts, heading in different directions. To me they seem like playing hopscotch in a minefield, not a sensible form of transport. Then there are little planes. I'm much happier with a bourbon and coke up the back where I can't see the pilot panicking. I know that it's twenty seven times safer then driving down the street but I'm always happier when we are back on the ground, and I'm not packed into the glove box with two hundred of my friends.

     My mate has been threatening to take me up in his plane for the last fifteen years. He has even worn out one plane in that time.  Friday night at the pub " Wanna fly tomorrow", beer makes you do strange things. Why not. Lilydale airport is on the edge of town, fields and hangers full of small planes. You can learn to fly there. We push open the hanger door, the little red plane is just that. Little. Two seats, three hundred and twenty kilos. Even surrounded by little planes it's little. A marvel of modern technology, made from carbon fibre, space age, electronics, and unobtainem. After an hour of checks, I squeeze into my seat. I'm not that big, but there is only one place I can put my hands without getting in the way of anything important. And I'm surround by important. Normally I'm in the back with the hosties, but the only thing behind me is a little window in the roof, a reusable grocery bag, and what looks like a large fire cracker beside it. " What's that" , I ask. That's the plane parachute. "OH" good to see the guys who built this have complete confidence.

    "Clear prop", taxi , after what seem like using up about fifty feet of runway were in the the air. A couple of hours later we're back at the pub. Aside from a few bumps, it was great to see town from a different angle. Thanks mate.

 

Click here for the views of town. 


Posted by bondrj at 10:22 PM EADT
Updated: Saturday, 19 February 2022 6:02 PM EADT
Wednesday, 8 September 2021
The Rocky Road less traveled.
Topic: Australia

 
               So I'm on a rocky track in the middle of nowhere, with a busted Volkswagen, no phone reception, and it's dark. What am I doing here again. Ahh I remember, supporting our poor country cousins.

      Summer Twenty Twenty didn't start well  for the bush. Visitors dried up after we had droughts, then major bush fires, which burnt an area one and a half times the size of England. This is normally the time when us  city people flock to the bush/beach. The locals whinge about the crowds, the farmers hide, but they all make enough cash to survive another year.   The media convinced us  city folk  that every thing past our line of sight was burnt to a crisp. Even if it wasn't, it would spontaneously  combust, the moment you got there, instantly adding you and your family to the global warming problem. Fact check, Australia is big, only 0.4% got burnt. Time for Mick and I to put our super hero capes on and come to the rescue, with a beer, Pama, coffee and cake tour.

    The original plan was to leave after the March school holidays 2020, splash some cash around country VIC/NSW, then return with a warm glow of knowing we had done our bit.  Ah, the best laid plans, Mick got delayed by a week, then COVID hit, then the borders closed, then Melbourne, got  the "Ring of Steel", then 200 days of lockdown. I sound like I'm making excuses here, but really I tried, it wasn't my fault. 

     Skip to April 2021, Victoria is having one of its rare Covid lockdown free days, Even better some the State borders are open. Time to hit it. We plough  through the ring of steel into Gippsland visiting friends, Lunch in Barnesdale, Afternoon tea in Cain River.  A couple of days later we even get through the NSW border. As per usual Mick has his spread sheet of goals and tasks to accomplish. One of these is to drive around some of the bush in the south eastern corner of NSW, so we hit the dirt tracks checking out some remote beaches and sights. Back on the main road he points out snake track. " I think that's where we want to go". OK. It's a bit rough, but we are taking it easy. there are some houses on the side of the road. After a while the houses disappear, but the tracks still ok. Then the track gets a bit worse, OK we will bail at the first intersection. Twenty clicks in the tracks off the road are way worse than the one we are on, but its only about another ten k to the main road. We stop to kick a big rock off the road, still cruising.  The track here is a bit less used and has some grass in the middle of it. Bang we hit something, where did that come from. Just around the next bend the track gets way better. I think we have made it. Then this giant red oil can appears on my dash along with a loud alarm. Bugger. I stop check under the car and there is oil running out the bottom. Not Good. 
    It's late afternoon, there is no phone signal. Well we can't drive, and we need to get out of here. I start walking and soon see some paddocks. I can't hear any banjos, so their must be some civilisation around here. I find a house but there is no one about, so I climb the hill and get a bit of phone signal. Soon enough I'm talking to the local towie.  Be an hour mate. No worries I'm going back to the car, see ya. An hour and a half later it's getting dark and I'm back on top of the hill. " Sorry got another job, be another hour" Finally It's dark, but we see a truck creeping up the track. We had got through the rough bit, and an hour later we are in town. The towie takes us to the nearest motel. It's full, so is the next, the pubs getting reno'd. The last chance has one double left. We check in and head to the pub but the kitchen is getting reno'd too, so it's the trusty Chinese.  I can highly recommend the Golden ocean chinese cafe for great old fashioned chinese australian food. Tomorrows another day.
    After breaky we head to the garage. The boys are busy, but say they might get a chance to look at it in the Arvo. This is the second time I have been stuck here in five years. Last one was on a yacht with three dead alternators. We do the wharf, van park, main st, coffee shops, fisherman's club, public phones, recycle bins. Bega tick. Back to the garage. The VW has a aluminium sump, light but fragile, and broken. I hear Parts, time, money, yer, yer, I'm out of here guys, ring me when it's fixed. Seven A.M we're on the bus.
    Next stop Canberra, not quite the bush, but i've just spent 3 months here. My friends parents are over from Ireland, and I have a couple of little jobs I want to do. The Capital is fun but the spread sheet is calling. Monday morning back on the bus. Our mate Shergs, lives in Sydney and has a car. Train to the edge of town, Shergs finds us in the pub. By arvo we are at Wisemans ferry to check out the old convict road, then off to the pub. It's booked out, seems to be a bit of a theme going on here.  We get a couple of expensive rooms at the only other place in town, the resort. Well we are here to support the economy. 
    The idea is to get to Armadale to see the Cuz via the Hunter Valley. I have visions of winerys, and quite little country towns. By the time we are in Singleton it's getting on. Nice place lets stay here. Great idea, but the place is booked out. Oh well there is always Muswellbrook, it's a fair size. Drive by of the Liddle power station, and some lake that will kill you if you swim in it are the highlights of this bit. The town is full of places to stay, but they are all full. The power station has a shutdown, so does the railway line. Every thing in town is full of tradies, or gray nomads who got here before us. Aberdeen, full, Scone, we try every place in town, and it's getting late.  The very last pub has a last minute cancelation. It has steak and beer.
    Shergs is over it, he has stuff to do back home. No worries we will get back on the bus. Nice breakfast, bus station, you guessed it, booked out. Normally there is a train but the line has a shutdown. No bus till the next day. No accomodation, we call the Cuz, he's sick, and doesn't feel like a 300 km round trip. We jump in the car with Shergs and head back to Muswellbrook. At the car rental place they just laugh, Shutdown, We give up. Back in Sydney we check into the Central hostel and have a great meal in Spice lane. This is more like it. By noon the next day we have caught a flight home. 
    A week later I walk to Caulfield and jump on the train. Morning tea in Barnesdale, Lunch at Cain River, It's like Deja Vu. The time table says I will be in Eden at 3.55 PM. At the Garage I chat to the Guys, I came here to support the bush, here's my two and a half grand. By four I'm blasting out of town.  I may be some time before I'm back.
 
Click the pic for more 

Posted by bondrj at 12:01 AM NZT
Updated: Thursday, 9 September 2021 12:26 AM NZT
Sunday, 21 March 2021
Back on the Bike
Topic: Australia

 

 

Covid Covid Covid, I'm over it. Thankfully a bit of sanity is creeping back into my life. Micks been busy organizing a ride. The meeting point is my Cousin Rob's owns a bush block in the western districts. It's only a three hour drive after my first day of work for a couple of months. I get there at Eleven. St Aunard is named after French marshal Jacques Leroy de Saint Arnaud, commander-in-chief of the army of the East. Just thought I would throw that in. The block was once a bit of degraded farm land, but Rob has revegetated it. There are a dozen of us camped in the bush. Itinerary, day one, breakfast, ride to the pub, have lunch return. Day two ride to the café, have lunch return. At night the locals gave us a great talk on conservation efforts around the area.  All in all it pretty much went to plan Thanks to, Mick, Rob, Yaroon, and Russ(not me). for the organization.

 

Click the pic for more. 


Posted by bondrj at 12:01 AM NZT
Thursday, 31 December 2020
Welcome 2021
Topic: Australia

 

 

So a year of traveling without really travelling, bye bye 2020. I've ended up in Canberra, slowly being hemmed in as the other States shut their borders around me. Contrary to popular opinion, that's not a bad thing. The bars, and shops are still open. Canberra has lots of things to do, and where i'm living I can walk out the front door and be in the bush. Roll on 2021.


Posted by bondrj at 12:01 AM EADT
Updated: Wednesday, 16 February 2022 5:45 PM EADT
Monday, 21 September 2020
Traveling Within
Topic: Undefined

 

 

 A guest appearance from Emma about the joys of travelling while not being allowed to travel more than 5 kms from home.

Until Sunday 13 September, Spring had been putting in an appearance in Melbourne, but only for a day or two. Then she would slip back indoors, to be replaced by chillsome, grey scale days. But last Sunday, Spring put on her rainbow coloured party frock, threw open the closet door, thumbed her nose at Old Dad Winter, and went cavorting about the town. And She stopped traffic, including me: I turned the corner from my house and halted under a tree, bursting with new green growth, against a azure sky, being enjoyed by a gang of Rainbow Lorikeets. As I stood there, a cheerful lass called out to me: “Hey, it’s Spring!” We could both sense the usual joy and freedom that Spring brings, but also the specialness of this particular Spring after weeks of Winter and lockdown. When we parted, we were both nearly dancing down the street.  

To celebrate this joyous pandemonium of sunshine and rainbows, I did something that I’ve not done for some time: I mounted my trusty steed (bicycle) and went for a ride. It was glorious. My fellow Melbournians were out and about in the same heady state of euphoria.  

This brings me to some cogitations on the art of travel. Now I admit that I am disappointed that I did not get to go to the Olympics this year as I was scheduled to do, and no doubt I will be disappointed if I can’t go in 2021. However, I’ve tried to stay positive and see some of the things that we are allowed to do as alternate forms of travel of a sort.  

In his book The Art of Travel, the philosopher, Alain de Botton, asks why we don’t apply the same curiosity and wonder to our own locality that we deploy when visiting somewhere new. He also makes reference to the thinker, John Ruskin’s view, that to properly savour a location, one should only ever travel five miles a day. So, during our Stage 4 lockdown (when we are only allowed to travel five kilometres from home), I have been trying to apply these principles. I try to see my neighbourhood as a tourist. These days I have started running again, and have a 5km circuit that I run 2-3 times a week and try to see it anew each time. As for Rainbow Lorikeets, they would stop any tourist in their tracks!  

I have always delighted in the travel experience that you can participate in through reading. Each time they lock us down, I pick an epic tome to read. So far, I have been to Tudor England in the sublime The Mirror and the Light by Hilary Mantel. I was able to share the travel experience with my friend Jane who was reading the tale at the same time. Then I went to a destination that my mum had recommended: 1950s-1960s bohemian Australia in The Vivisector by Patrick White. It was definitely worth the visit. Most recently, I have just returned from India during the time of the British Raj in the historical novel, The Far Pavilions by M. M. Kaye, which incidentally is a text that should be consulted if ever one is considering invading Afghanistan. Lesson: Don’t!  

Food is always an important part of any travelling that I do, and I have actually had more new local food experiences in lockdown than I have for years. Previously I tended to frequent some old faithful eateries. Since lockdown, my adventurous neighbours have appreciably extended my culinary encounters. As we are allowed to exercise with one other person and get takeaway food, my neighbours and I go out walking and foraging in local eateries: Babka Bakery (Easter European), Bowl Bowl (Sichuan Chinese), Saba’s Ethiopian Restaurant and a multifaceted array of other delicious restaurants and cafes that we probably wouldn’t have tried if we hadn’t been locked down.  

I am extraordinarily fortunate to have a number of friends overseas, and thanks to a global pandemic most of us are at home with extra time on our hands. So, while I might have had less contact with local friends, I’ve actually had more with overseas friends thanks to the joys of modern technology: multi-country phone catchups; e-messages ranging from the hilarious (toilet roll earrings – the gift for 2020), to the touching (ducklings being saved by burley German police officers – perhaps that’s just me), to the sublime (Nessun Dorma sung by Italian school children). Technology allows us to travel to our dear ones in these new ways. (Qualification: I do understand that it is not necessarily an effective substitute for those who have close family and friends interstate and overseas who they can’t travel to see.)  

I love attending a sporting event and have enjoyed travelling to some fun events in recent years. I don’t necessarily understand the rules, but that’s never interfered with my enjoyment as I just love the cheerful atmosphere. When my mum was very sick (pre-COVID days), my lovely friend Miranda invited me to a Melbourne City game and supplied me with coffee and donuts. It was the best therapy I could have wished for! Since COVID, the pickings have been slim and the performance regularly under par, except for the Tour de France. So bless the French, and Michael for organising a Zoom Tour experience.  

The philosopher, John Armstrong, once observed that you can participate in the world of ideas wherever you are. He was not referring to social media (which seems to me to foster rigid, opinionated, shallow tripe which only gets worse when people are scared, frustrated and stuck at home). Thinking is an important form of travel for me. Thinking requires time and a want of the distraction and busyness that seem to accompany our usual modern world. I can’t imagine having had the time or headspace to think through the observations and ideas that I am now writing about before lockdown. You may be wishing that I didn’t have the time or headspace to write this now. If so, just stop reading. I won’t mind because I won’t know! J  

Which brings me to my thoughts on my future travel destinations. I still very much want to cycle in Vietnam and Copenhagen, go to the World Cup, see my friends in Europe and the UK, and have a Singapore Sling with Tim and his gin in Singapore. However, my current priority destinations are my mum’s nursing home in East Melbourne, my Dad’s nursing home in Carlton, my sister’s home in Anglesea, and my uncle’s magical garden on Mt Macedon just outside Melbourne. Those are the hoped for pilgrimages that are now most dear to my heart.  

In the meantime, I am currently researching a new bicycle and new cycling routes in preparation for at least being able to ride further than 5kms from home. Pete B is exploring cycle trails in the northern suburbs, and I am trying to work out a cycle route to Geelong that does not include the freeway. I will keep the cyclists amongst you posted. We will only have to dodge all the other Melbournian’s on the cycle trails enjoying the same sense of freedom and release as ourselves! J  

 

Emma L 

Occasional Traveller and Cogitator 

Posted by bondrj at 12:01 AM NZT
Updated: Tuesday, 22 September 2020 5:14 PM NZT

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