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It's 1985, and five days after I arrived in England, I am leaving it again. My mates had turned up, and I have arranged to do something with him. That was all that I knew. Dave has rocked up on a dogey looking Honda 550 twin motorbike. One half of an empty pannier on the back for my gear, and a spare helmet. Time to lighten the load, anything but the basics gets left at our friends house. We are going off on an adventure.
Ok. A bit of background here. Dave is a motorcycle nutter. His parents are both English, but he was born in New Zealand. This is his first trip with his new British passport to see the homeland. What's on the Agenda, Trafalgar Square, Stonehenge, The lake district. No. No. No. Day one buy a motor bike, Day two, head off to Liverpool, to jump on a midnight ferry, to some lump of mud stuck halfway between England and Ireland.
The Isle of Man, is a town council, pretending to be a sovereign state. God knows why, but people have lived here for 6000 years. Fifty by Twenty kilometres wide, its home to a big water wheel, a few sus tax avoiders, the Bee Gees birthplace, and you guessed it, a motorcycle race.
So early one May morning Dave and I rock up at the international capital of Douglas. A pretty little bay town a couple of Km's long, Its population has doubled with the influx of 10,000 bike enthusiasts. Both sides of the main promenade are covered with bikes parked two deep. Nearly every one is dressed in leather, the pubs are full, those that aren't drinking are walking up and down admiring the bikes. Some how we find a Bed and Breakfast.
The main race is called the Tourist Trophy, or the TT. Its been held since 1907 on a 60 km loop of the main road around the island. Just about the only road, because when the race is on everything else stops. The courses claims to fame are most of it is fringed by stone walls, and the number of competitors' it kills every year. To beat the course lap record you have to average 220 KM/hour. Not for the faint of heart, most professional bike racers won't even go near it.
Our standard day is breakfast, jump on the bike, and head towards a good viewing spot before the course closes. Watch bikes fly past at blinding speeds for an hour or so of qualifying. Move to another posie when the road reopens. More nutters, Lunch, Then watch a race in the afternoon. Check out the bikes in town. Head to the pub for dinner, watch the madness, retire late with a thick head, repeat the next day. The crowds have come from all over Western Europe. There are lots of Germans, and Scandinavians. Considering how much beer they drink, there is no trouble, just a huge party vibe at nights. Bands and lots of singing.
Over the week there are a pile of races. The crowed favourites are the Dunlop's, a couple of crazy Ulsterman brothers, they dominate the TT for years. Joey Dunlop wins three races in a week, and sets a course record. There's a movie called Road I would recommend you see if you want any idea of how crazy these blokes were. From memory, I think during the week only one competitor turned himself into a pile of mince, a good year for the Ambos.
Then it was over. The good thing about bikes is you can fit a lot of them on a ferry. Douglas quickly goes back to sleepy hollow for another year. As for us, we are going to play tourist in the 1985 car bombing capital of Europe, Belfast Northern Ireland. We didn't get blown up, but after ten days of riding around Ireland on a motorbike in constant rain we bailed out for southern Spain.
Posted by bondrj
at 6:08 PM EADT
Updated: Tuesday, 5 March 2024 11:38 AM EADT